We dipped our toe into travelling around Java in Bandung: what to eat, how to get around, finding things to do, arranging trips, getting our phones to work, and so forth. I’ll be honest, it’s a story of trial and error, so I don’t think we did Bandung justice! But we went on a small adventure anyway, and set ourselves up for success for the following two weeks.
Bandung is about 3 hours from Jakarta by train. The city became a symbol of independence and unity during the 1955 Bandung Conference, where leaders from 29 Asian and African nations gathered to promote solidarity and non-alignment during the Cold War. Today, Bandung remains a city of contrasts and creativity. Its tree-lined streets are home to iconic historic buildings, while its outskirts are lined with beautiful tea plantations, volcanic craters, and hot springs. It’s also an excellent place to go shopping, and the internet tells me it’s not bad for going out either.
In the centre of Bandung, along Jalan Asia Afrika, there is a stretch of colonial-era buildings that once formed the heart of Dutch Bandung. An interesting landmark here is the Gedung Merdeka, a grand Art Deco structure that hosted above-mentioned conference. Along the street, there’s also the Savoy Homann Hotel (Streamline Moderne architecture), and nearby there’s the Great Post Office (Kantor Pos Besar). We had a stroll down Braga Street, which has numerous cute cafes. There’s the Gedung Landmark, a historic building that once served as a cultural centre, and the fancy Braga Permai restaurant. I was particularly interested in the bakery there too. Sumber Hidangan (originally known as ‘Het Snoephuis’) retains its vintage charm with classic wooden interiors and displays filled with traditional Dutch and Indonesian pastries. Very fun and delicious stop!
The next day, we arranged a car and a driver (we asked reception at the hotel if they knew anyone, and someone spontaneously volunteered). Our first stop was the legendary Tangkuban Perahu, a majestic volcanic crater located about 30 km north of the city. Visitors can hike or drive up to the main crater, Kawah Ratu, to see its steaming vents and surreal, sulfur scenery. We were there on a misty and cloudy day, which actually added to the atmosphere. The volcano’s name means “upturned boat,” which stems from a local Sundanese myth:
According to this story, a woman named Dayang Sumbi lived in the area and was known for her exceptional weaving skills as well as her beauty. One day, while spinning yarn, she accidentally dropped her spindle. However, a passing dog kindly brought it back to her, and she… eh, wait for it, married the dog? Who was actually a cursed deity? They then had a son named Sangkuriang. Years later, Sangkuriang, unaware of his true parentage (as most classical heroes, like Hercules), accidentally killed the dog during a hunt. Oh no… Dayang Sumbi was obviously distraught, and banished him. Sangkuriang wandered around for years and years, and eventually returned… not recognising Dayang Sumbi as his mother? He immediately fell in love and proposed marriage. Err. Dayang Sumbi did realise what was going on and needed to put a stop to it. There’s lots of ways I reckon she could have gone about this, but she choose a rather unique solution? She agreed to marry him, but only if he built a massive dam to flood the valley and constructed a large boat…. and complete both tasks before dawn. (Another Hercules reference, for me! I wonder if there’s any connection at all??) Sangkuriang accepted the challenge and enlisted the help of supernatural forces to complete the tasks, as you do. As dawn approached, Dayang Sumbi prayed to the gods for help. Her prayers were answered, and the horizon lit up prematurely, tricking Sangkuriang into thinking it was morning. Enraged by his failure, Sangkuriang kicked the unfinished boat, overturning it and forming the distinctive shape of Tangkuban Perahu.
Next, our driver insisted that we had a look at the nearby Cikole Orchid Forest. It’s not exactly a historical site, so it was not at the top of my to-do list, but sure, why not. This forest, spread over around 12 ha, combines tall pine trees with exotic orchids from around the world; including rare species native to Indonesia. Originally, this site was established as part of a conservation effort – preserving orchid biodiversity while promoting eco-tourism. Visitors can stroll along scenic wooden pathways and stage impromptu photoshoots. While not particularly exciting or noteworthy in my opinion, it was very tranquil, and very child-friendly.
After lunch, we had intended to go learn how tea is grown in the region… but we had also noticed many strawberry farms, which E was very excited by. The strawberry plantations around Bandung are, as far as I understand it, a unique feature of the region’s agricultural landscape. Strawberries thrive in the cooler, fertile highlands of Ciwidey and Lembang. They were Introduced during the Dutch colonial period, initially grown as part of experimental farming practices. Today, these plantations not only contribute to the local economy but have also become popular tourist attractions. Many farms have expanded their offerings to include cafes and shops, where you can taste fresh strawberry products like jams, and they’re extremely popular spots for photography shoots – ranging from selfies to weddings! In fact, I’d say the photo aspect was the main draw for local visitors here, and we were somewhat underwhelmed by the experience…
From the historic Braga street to the iconic Tangkuban Perahu volcano, Bandung is a city/area that caters to all types of travellers. While it was not the highlight of our trip around Java, we still made some cool memories. Stay tuned for my next post, where I’ll be taking you to the cultural heart of Java – Yogyakarta!
