Jakarta

Central Jakarta
Central Jakarta

When I got an opportunity to work in Indonesia, I jumped at the chance to tag on a holiday. Granted, bringing my mum and toddler cost me more than a month’s wages… but if that’s not what we work for, then what is? We only ended up spending a few days in Jakarta, so my tips are by no means exhaustive – but there are a couple of things I want to share anyway!

Jakarta is – for the time being, because there are other plans! – the political and economic heart of Indonesia. It is known for its dynamic street life, colonial architecture, and sprawling markets. Jakarta is a city of contrasts, where ancient traditions coexist with contemporary skyscrapers. Apparently, amongst travellers, it has a bit of a reputation to just be used for the airport and nothing else – which is not quite fair. Jakarta has both fascinating museums and historic neighbourhoods, so why would you skip it?

Bicycles in Kota Tua
Bicycles in Kota Tua

Transport

We found Grab a super useful app/service in Indonesia. It’s the Indonesian version of Uber, if I had to explain in one sentence. It offers pretty reliable and cost-effective options ranging from motorbike taxis (GrabBike) to cars (GrabCar). Do mind though that traffic jams are literally legendary in Jakarta, so sometimes walking is actually faster. I use Grab connected to my Starling account, making it really easy to pay in Indonesian Rupiah. It sometimes also lets you select really specific services, like female drivers. Plus, you can book a driver for the whole day ahead of time as well, if you can’t figure that out through any other agency; and you can schedule airport pickups. Of course this doesn’t all always work out, but mostly I was pretty happy with it! Oh, and Grab also has a food delivery service (GrabFood), which is very handy for sampling local cuisine if you’re not sure where to go and what to eat (and/or have a tired toddler at your accommodation).

Also really worth learning about, is Indonesia’s rail network. It is a convenient and affordable way to travel between major cities and regions, with Jakarta serving as a central hub. Trains are especially popular for routes on the island of Java, offering scenic views and a comfortable alternative to long road trips. The rail operator, Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI), provides a range of services, from economy to executive class, all of which are clean, air-conditioned, and mostly punctual. The website for booking tickets requires a little bit of a learning curve, in my opinion – but once you understand the stations, seating plans, and payment system you’re good to go. It’s advisable to book in advance, especially during holidays or weekends – but not too far in advance, because tickets won’t have been released yet! If you can, definitely choose trains over airplanes, to get around and across Java.

Courtyard of the National Museum of Indonesia
Courtyard of the National Museum of Indonesia
Inside the National Museum
Inside the National Museum

Things to do

The National Museum of Indonesia (or Museum Gajah) has an extensive collection of artifacts – ranging from prehistoric relics and Hindu-Buddhist sculptures to traditional textiles and ceremonial objects. It is an ideal starting point for understanding Indonesia’s rich diversity, with exhibits that span the archipelago’s several thousands islands. The museum is pretty well-curated, divided into oversee-able sections with nice lighting and carefully selected objects. You could easily spend a half day there (or more, if your brain isn’t overwhelmed by then!).

Onward to Jakarta’s historic centre (Kota Tua) – once the heart of Dutch Batavia. Strolling through the bicycle-lined Fatahillah Square, you’ll find landmarks like the Jakarta History Museum and the Wayang Museum, which showcase the city’s evolution and vibrant puppet-making traditions. The cobblestone streets and charming cafes offer a nostalgic ambiance. However, Kota Tua is not only a journey back in time. It is also a lively cultural spot, with street performances, local artists, and delicious Indonesian snacks available around every corner. I should add – many contemporary Indonesians view Kota Tua as a complex symbol of the nation’s colonial history. While the area’s Dutch-era architecture and cultural landmarks are admired for their historical value and aesthetic charm, they also serve as reminders of a time marked by exploitation and inequality. This duality fosters a mix of pride in preserving the heritage… and a critical reflection on its origins. Consequently, in recent years, Kota Tua has been revitalised to promote national identity and cultural tourism. This effort reflects a growing appreciation for the area as a space to celebrate resilience and transformation.

Appreciating some of the architecture
Appreciating some of the architecture
Old and new
Old and new

Things to eat

Indonesian is my favourite food, so I’ve been dying to try it in Indonesia. Here are a couple of (vegetarian) recommendations:

  1. Gado-Gado
    This is a colourful mix of any/all steamed vegetables, like bean sprouts and green beans, sometimes topped with tofu or tempeh, and, of course, a rich peanut sauce. It’s can come with a side of lontong (rice cakes) or krupuk (crackers), depending on how extravagant the restaurant/food stall is. It’s often served cold, while I prefer it warm, so beware!
  2. Fried Cassava (Singkong Goreng)
    This is a crispy snack, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Cassava is boiled and then deep-fried to golden perfection, often seasoned with garlic and salt or served with spicy sambal for dipping (I prefer to request more peanut sauce haha). Its hearty texture and simple, satisfying flavour make it a favourite and very safe-to-try street food.
  3. Indonesian Poffertjes (Kue Cubit)
    Indonesia’s version of Dutch poffertjes are fluffy, mini pancakes… made from sweet batter, often cooked in small moulds and topped with something nice like ice-cream (but also cheese, if you prefer!). Many restaurants serve these, but also street vendors. It’s a fun treat to try, mixing cultures from across the world!

Jakarta was just the beginning of our Indonesian adventure, and there’s so much more to explore! From historic sites to… more historic sites! Next on our journey is Bandung, a city known for its cooler climate.

Sampling some local food!
Sampling some local food!

Author: Zen

Archaeologist and adventurer. Interested in local museums and road-trips into the unknown. Originally from Holland, always learning a new language.

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