Our stay in Yogyakarta (or Jogja) was one of the highlights of our journey around Java. Once upon a time it was the seat of the powerful Mataram Sultanate – and during Indonesia’s fight for independence, it played a pivotal role as the country’s temporary capital. The city is renowned for preserving its ancient heritage, and continues to as a centre of cultural and administrative authority in the region. Of course, Jogja’s is also near to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Borobudur and Prambanan – but more on that later!
First, we had a little stroll down Malioboro Street of course. It’s meant to be the commercial and cultural life, known for its exciting energy and street vendors. It’s tourist-oriented alright, but we nevertheless had a great time exploring the clothes shops there! Especially in the evening, there is a lively atmosphere as well as lots of eclectic street performances (though not great if you’re hoping your toddler will do a little pre-dinner nap haha). At the end of the street is Beringharjo Market, Jogja’s oldest market. It’s great for batik lovers, offering fabrics in all styles and price ranges. The market also features stalls selling Javanese snacks, herbs, and antiques, making it a great spot for an authentic-ish experience. Don’t forget to haggle, if you’re interested in anything! We asked our hotel for a good recommendation for food and a little drink, and ended up at a Chinese rather than Indonesian restaurant. Very nice for vegetarian options!
Also along Malioboro Street is the Vredeburg Museum, originally built in 1760 as a Dutch fort. Its name means ‘Fort of Peace,’ which ironically contrasts with its purpose during the colonial era as a tool of control and oppression. Today, the fort has been transformed into a museum showcasing Indonesia’s fight for independence through dioramas, artefacts, and historical documents. It’s a must-visit in order to understand Indonesia’s complex history (especially if you’re Dutch, like me).
The Kraton (Sultan’s Palace) still serves as the residence of the royal family. Built in the 18th century CE, it embodies classic Javanese architecture, combining detailed carvings and symbolic design elements reflecting the cosmos with spacious courtyards and grand pavillions. Parts of the Kraton are open to the public as a museum, showcasing royal heirlooms and artefacts – and often there are traditional performances like gamelan music and wayang kulit (shadow puppetry). You can spend hours exploring this place; easily half a day, at least! Do check whether it’s actually open though, visiting times and days can vary depending on different holidays and what the royal family is up to. N.b. Wear modest clothing when visiting, as a sign of respect!
A short walk from the Kraton (or a super long one, if you get lost like we did), lies Taman Sari (Water Palace). This was a royal garden and bathing complex for the Sultanate. It was designed as a pleasure retreat, featuring pools, pavilions, and hidden underground tunnels. Though many parts of Taman Sari have fallen into ruins, its main bathing pools and the adjacent underground mosque remain intact. Plus, the area surrounding Taman Sari is now home to cute batik workshops and art galleries. Do note that there’s a few stairs there, so it’s not very pram-friendly (or wheelchair accessible, for that matter)!
Meanwhile, we were busy negotiating a trip to see some ancient sites, of course! We asked our Grab driver the first day when we came into town whether he’d be up for something like that, and he seemed positive. Doesn’t mean this is a safe recommendation haha, but obviously worth a try if you don’t know anyone! So off we went on a road-trip!
Borobudur is one of the world’s largest Buddhist temples. It was constructed in the 9th century CE during the Sailendra Dynasty, and consists of nine stacked platforms adorned with over thousands of intricate bas-reliefs and over five hundred Buddha statues. The walk up to the temple is quite long, allowing for maximum anticipation and impact. The temple’s design reflects a symbolic journey from the earthly realm to enlightenment, culminating in the central stupa at the summit. I could write lots more about it, but the whole internet is already filled with info, of course. In any case, Borobudur was abandoned for centuries before being rediscovered in the 19th century and restored. Recently, a rule was introduced that visitors have to purchase a special ticket, including special slippers, to climb the temple. It’s expensive, but worth it. I still use the nice tote bag the slippers came in! As well as the slippers, for that matter. Modest dress is also required, although it is not strictly checked. I took my toddler in a carrier, and used and umbrella for shade. While I think the Pyramids of Giza and Taj Mahal are slightly over-rated, I found Borobudur really worth visiting.
Next though, was the absolute highlight of our entire journey. We travelled to the much less well-known Selogriyo temple. This is a small yet enchanting Hindu sanctuary, tucked away behind the hills and offering a peaceful contrast to Borobudur’s grandeur. Also built in the 9th century, Selogriyo is surrounded by terraced rice fields, making the journey to the temple as rewarding as the destination itself. The temple is modest in size, but the c. 30-60 minute hike to get there is absolutely stunning. Wear comfortable shoes and long trousers – and bring insect repellent and water! We visited somewhat late in the afternoon and the light was just breath-taking. On the way back we stopped for a cup of local tea at a little café that seemed to be manned completely depending on whether there were any visitors to the site. It was so quiet and beautiful; this is definitely my number one recommendation if you ever visit Java / Jogja.
Next on our wish list was a trip to Prambanan; so we set off on a second road-trip! Prambanan is Indonesia’s largest Hindu temple complex, built in the 9th century CE during the Mataram Kingdom. It is dedicated to the Trimurti: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The complex is famed for its tall, detailed central shrines – and its bas-reliefs depict scenes from the famous Ramayana epic. The temple complex also hosts traditional Ramayana Ballet performances, which I wish we could have attended (but I did not have the energy for an evening outing at that scale with a toddler!). While the main shrine was very busy with tourists, most other shrines were not, so we were able to explore in peace.
I said it’s a complex right: there’s more than ne temple to see. A bit of a walk from Prambanan lies Sewu temple, which is actually a Buddhist site. Built slightly earlier than Prambanan, Sewu’s central temple is surrounded by over two hundred smaller structures, arranged in a mandala-like pattern which symbolises Buddhist cosmology. Many of these have been partially restored after years of neglect and natural disasters. This site is way less crowded; in fact, we were the only people there!
Afterward, we also asked our driver to stop by Plaosan temple. This is another beautiful 9th-century Buddhist complex – with intriguing Hindu influences. (It’s been suggested this was built by a Hindu prince for his Buddhist bride – see a more detailed blog post on it by someone else here!) The complex comprises two main temples and numerous smaller structures – it has a north and a south side, and you have to cross a road between them. It was likewise pretty quiet, and peaceful to explore – which suited us with a super overtired toddler who was refusing to nap!
Last but not least, we travelled to mysterious Ratu Boko. This is a really interesting archaeological site consisting of temple ruins with the remains of a royal palace. Probably! It’s not totally clear. Built in the 8th century, its purpose is still debated – some believe it served as a defensive fort, while others see it as a ceremonial retreat. The site includes grand gateways, really cool bathing pools?!, and a crematorium…! The panoramic views at sunset make Ratu Boko a popular spot for photos. Beyond the main gates we encountered nearly no one though, which made for a lovely golden hour stroll. Do note that the terrain involves walking on grass and and climbing stairs by the way. It’s not nearly as popular as Borobudur and Prambanan, despite being offered on the combination ticket, and both pathways and signage are scarce.
Okay, that was a lot, wasn’t it! Amazing city, amazing surroundings. We saw so much, but I still feel like we only scratched the surface! I’ll be back! For now… onward to Surakarta.
