Surakarta, also known as Solo, was next on our tour of Java. It is sometimes overlooked by people who focus their trip on Yogyakarta – but it is so nearby, you should really not skip it! It has royal palaces, museums, ancient temples – it provides a unique window into Java’s rich heritage. Perhaps most importantly though, it is a bit calmer and quieter than Jogja. I found the atmosphere in Solo very relaxed. We strolled from good food to lovely cafes. The roads were great for the pram, and also pretty quiet compared to other cities.
We also stayed in my favourite hotel of the trip in Solo. The really beautiful Royal Surakarta Heritage. I rarely give accommodation tips on this blog, as it is super personal and budget-bound, but I wanted to give this one a shout out. (I got a good deal on it at the time, no idea what prices are normally like.) The entrance hall was stunning, and very toddler-friendly for a little run-around. They had a different tea available there every day, and mum and myself would just sit there and sip it while E toddled around the place. Brilliant.
Anyway. One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is the Kraton of course, a royal palace that, like the one in Jogja, dates back to the mid-18th century. It is sort of split into an old section, where photos are not allowed; and then a different section, across the road, with a lovely garden and museum. The Surakarta Sunanate (yes Sunanate, not Sultanate) was the result of the division of the Mataram Sultanate following a series of internal conflicts and the Giyanti Treaty. It became one of the two royal courts, alongside the Yogyakarta Sultanate, marking the fragmentation of Javanese power under Dutch colonial influence. The Sunanate has played a significant role in preserving Javanese culture and traditions, functioning as both a political and spiritual institution. The Kraton itself is not just a historical site but also a living institution, as it continues to serve as the residence of Solo’s royal family. The museum section houses an array of artifacts, including royal regalia, traditional Javanese costumes, shadow puppets, and ancient manuscripts. They insisted we go with a guide, but after some convincing let us explore by ourselves. Both mum and myself have worked as guides and we prefer to make up our own minds on what we’re looking at. With that said, local guides can of course provide deeper insights into the palace’s history and symbolism; and it is also nice to support them! Everyone at the Kraton/museum was really friendly.
Another royal palace worth visiting in Solo is the Mangkunegaran Palace. This palace is still actively used for cultural and ceremonial events, and even diplomatic visits. Do check the palace’s schedule in advance, as it occasionally closes for private events. When we were there a huge market was being built up outside it as well, presumably in relation to Indonesian independence day. It looked like it would be fun. In any case, this palace reflects a blend of Javanese and European architectural styles, which makes for really great photo ops. Here you really do have to go on a guided tour, btw. This was slightly challenging with a toddler who was excited to explore – but happily there were loads of other kids there too and they all had a great time chasing each other!
For those interested in antiques and collectibles, the Triwindu Market next door is a must-visit. This bustling market specialises in vintage items, from Javanese masks and batik to old coins and furniture. Wish I could bring some furniture back to Europe! Don’t worry, there are also plenty of cheap tourist souvenirs ha. Actually, do worry! It can be a bit difficult to distinguish treasure from mass-produced tat. Even if you’re not looking to buy anything, the market’s vibrant atmosphere and friendly vendors make it a memorable experience. Be prepared to bargain, as it’s part of the shopping culture ; ) Oh and beware there’s lots of stairs and narrow corridors, so it is not the most accessible place to explore (e.g. with a pram).
We also wanted to go clothes shopping, to look more like the gap year students we were pretending to be. I looked around online a bit and found that Klewer Market was recommended for this. It took us a while to find it, but it did not disappoint. It’s several levels, with a wheelchair (pram) accessible ramp on the right-hand side of the building. We were definitely the only foreigners there and shoppers as well as vendors were all very excited by this. Many photos were taken. It did restrict our haggling success though, as everyone saw an opportunity to maybe make a bit extra! We had to work hard for our purchases!
Moving on from shopping – history enthusiasts should make a stop at the Radya Pustaka Museum, one of the oldest museums in Indonesia. It has an impressive collection of historical artifacts, including statues, traditional musical instruments… and bicycles! It is honestly not a super fascinating museum, because its galleries are a little random, but… it has an amazing library. We asked if we could go in and have a look, and the librarians all fell over each other wanting to take pictures of my toddler. They were so sweet! And it gave us a chance to browse some of the manuscripts in peace. Really, this little library is the highlight of the museum, do not skip it!
Next to the museum is also a batik shop slash museum (Danar Hadi). Again, a tour is required here, you can’t wander around by yourself and you also cannot take photos. I found this slightly underwhelming, because I kept not being able to tell if we were learning something or being sold something. At the end of the tour you could also see two ladies actually making the fabrics, but I am not entirely convinced this was a good thing. I have read that making batik in Solo/Indonesia can be a very difficult and badly paid job, and workers are often poor and treated badly, so what were we witnessing here exactly? A rare case of good employment, or exploitation? It’s not a good thing, if you can’t tell, that’s for sure! And as I am writing this I am still contemplating what I could have done with that situation. No one’s English was very good so my questions didn’t really get me anywhere. This is one to reflect on further…
Not sure how to switch from that topic to the next… but I also wanted to talk about our obligatory ancient temple road trip in Solo. Back in our hotel we’d met a single mum and her son, and we decided to get a car with a driver together the next day. The more the merrier, and more affordable! On my wish-list were temples of Cetho and Sukuh. Perched on the slopes of Mount Lawu, both of these temples are renowned for their unique architecture. Visitors are advised to dress modestly and approach these sites with respect; you can rent/borrow appropriate clothing in return for a donation.
First, we made the ridiculously scenic drive up to the Cetho Temple. This is a masterpiece of Hindu-Javanese architecture, and would be one of those famous Instagram spots if more people knew about it. It sits at an altitude of approximately 1,400 meters above sea level, with breath-taking views of terraced tea plantations. Built in the 15th century during the decline of the Majapahit Empire, it served as a place of worship and meditation. In fact, it still does; a large group of worshippers was there when we visited. The temple itself also consists of multiple terraced levels, connected by steep stone steps, symbolising a spiritual journey toward enlightenment. Each level contains distinct features, including altars, stone carvings, and statues. The main shrine at the highest terrace is dedicated to the god Shiva and serves as the focal point for worship. We weren’t able to linger there too long though, as there were also… hornets. Reliefs depict scenes from Hindu mythology, and many also include some sort of reference to fertility possibly in relation to agricultural rites. A highlight for us, as turtle lovers, was also the large stone turtle sculpture. But that is not all! A little walk from the temple is the Candi Kethek. This lesser-known temple (whose name means “Monkey Temple”) is built in a terraced style similar to Cetho, but it is much more… wild. That’s the only way I can describe it. I am pretty sure it is massively overlooked by everyone, and it feels overgrown and peaceful. Don’t skip it!
Onward, to Sukuh Temple. Many people will combine this in the same trip, and a lot of tour companies offer visits to Cetho and Sukuh together. This temple is sometimes referred to as “Java’s pyramid” due to its distinctive structure. Its steps kind of resemble Mesoamerican temples! Sukuh’s design deviates significantly from traditional Javanese Hindu temples… but perhaps more interesting is that it is believed to have been dedicated to fertility rites. It has loads of carvings and statues that depict… procreation, and the cycle of life (as the internet nicely put it, when I tried to google how to describe it). The entrance gate is particularly notable, featuring a carved lingga (phallus) and yoni (vulva), traditional Hindu symbols of creation and regeneration. Reliefs within the temple complex also portray scenes from Hindu mythology, including the story of the Adiparwa and depictions of the Garuda. It’s a pretty small site, so it does not take very long to visit. Definitely really interesting though!
I think that concludes my summary of Solo. It is less… bustling, than other Indonesian cities. However, its quiet charm makes it my favourite city out of all the places we visited.
