Semarang

Streets of Semarang
Streets of Semarang

Last but not least on our tour around Java, we visited Semarang. As before, we took the train there (from Solo) and also later the train back (to Jakarta). I can’t say enough good things about trains in Java, they were all just so easy to use… do not be tempted to take planet-polluting flights, don’t do it!

Historically, Semarang was a vital port city during the Majapahit Kingdom in the 15th century and later became a major trading hub under Dutch colonial rule. The city’s strategic location along the northern coast of Java allowed it to flourish as a centre of commerce, drawing influences from Chinese, Arab, and European traders. Put together, this makes it quite differeny from other cities on Java; and forms a strong contrast with Jogja and Solo.

The old city centre (Kota Lama) is amazing. This area is dotted with well-preserved Dutch-era buildings, but much more of them, and more quiet, than in Jakarta. There’s also a couple strategically placed bicycles, of course. Many of the buildings have been repurposed into boutiques, cafes, and a couple excellent restaurants. We really enjoyed exploring the area.

Nice architecture in the old centre
Nice architecture in the old centre
More beautiful buildings
More beautiful buildings
Random bicycles and people taking photos
Random bicycles and people taking photos
Variety in colourful doors and windows
Variety in colourful doors and windows
Still lots of Dutch signs
Still lots of Dutch signs
Some buildings completely overgrown
Some buildings completely overgrown
Crumbling but still in use
Crumbling but still in use
Overgrown and crumbling buildings
Overgrown and crumbling buildings

From the old centre, on the way back to our hotel, we also passed through Pasar Johar – one of Semarang’s oldest markets. It was originally built in the 1930s with an Art Deco design; but after a fire it had to undergo extensive renovations. Although it has seen better days, locals sell everything there… from fresh produce and textiles to traditional Javanese snacks. It is a really fun place for those looking to immerse themselves in the daily rhythm of Semarang. We were the only foreigners there though, so take that as a pro or con depending on your own preferences!

Exploring Pasar Johar
Exploring Pasar Johar

We also did some more serious sightseeing, of course. Lawang Sewu is one of Semarang’s most iconic landmarks. The name translates to “Thousand Doors.” This place was built in 1904 as the headquarters for the Dutch East Indies Railway Company, and features grand arches, stained glass windows, and a labyrinth of corridors. The internet told me that it is associated with ghost stories – but we did not find it scary at all. There were lots of families there on outings, and it is a fascinating place to learn about Indonesia’s railway history. Notably, there was a small photo studio where you could dress up as… Dutch people! Hahaha. When some of the visitors noticed there were actual Dutch people there they all came out for impromptu photos with us. What an experience!

Inside cheerful Lawang Sewu
Inside cheerful Lawang Sewu
Cheerful gardens
Cheerful gardens
Exploring corridors and rooms
Exploring corridors and rooms
Dutch bricks
Dutch bricks

Next amongst Semarang’s landmarks is the Sam Poo Kong Temple, located in the southern part of the city. There was a cave at this site, used by Chinese admiral Zheng He during his voyages in the 15th century! Later, it was developed into a temple complex. The vibrant red-and-gold structures reflect a blend of Chinese and Javanese architectural styles, and the temple remains an active place of worship for both Taoist and Buddhist communities. Please beware, all the different pavilions/altars require different (not very cheap) tickets. While it was very interesting to explore the Chinese heritage in Semarang, this wasn’t really a highlight for us.

Beautiful Chinese temples
Beautiful Sam Poo Kong
Sam Poo Kong complex
Sam Poo Kong complex
Lanterns with prayers and wishes
Lanterns with prayers and wishes

We didn’t actually end up sampling any Chinese cuisine in Semarang (missed opportunity, I know) – but we did have some Dutch food! Toko Oen is a famous establishment in Semarang – and happily just a short walk from our hotel. Established in 1936, it retains much of its original charm, with vintage décor, marble-top tables, and rattan chairs. It is known for its classic Dutch-Indonesian dishes, including bitterballen and a selection of homemade ice creams. We came to sample the poffertjes! Can confirm they are toddler-approved.

Time for the usual road-trip to see some temples! We really struggled to find a driver in Semarang; didn’t have much luck via the hotel or anything else we tried – so eventually we just asked staff in all the cafes/restaurants we visited and eventually, around 10pm the day before we wanted to go, got a hold of someone and managed to negotiate something! Off we went to… Gedong Songo!

This site is located about 40 km from the city. It is a complex of nine ancient Hindu temples set amidst the cool highlands of Mount Ungaran. Dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries, these temples are believed to have been built during the reign of the Sanjaya Dynasty. The journey to Gedong Songo offers scenic views of terraced rice fields, lush forests, and small villages; and the hike to and around the temples is part of the experience. In fact, it is an adventure in itself, with a trail that takes visitors past each temple… as well as geothermal features! The temples, though small in size, have intricate stone carvings. All the local visitors were delighted by my toddler (who insisted walking most of the trail, very slowly…) and many friendly people were met.

We weren’t sure about adding Semarang to our itinerary, but had to find something between Solo and Jakarta… and I am glad that we did. Between the charming streets of Kota Lama, the architectural grandeur of Lawang Sewu, and the amazing historic trails of Gedong Songo, this region offers a great mixture of activities.

Temples at Gedong Songo
Temples at Gedong Songo
More temples of Gedong Songo
More temples of Gedong Songo
Busy with Indonesian tourists
Busy with Indonesian tourists
Geothermal features
Geothermal features
Mum getting close to the action
Mum getting close to the action
Hiking back down
Hiking back down
Delicious road-trip lunch
Delicious road-trip lunch

 

Author: Zen

Archaeologist and adventurer. Interested in local museums and road-trips into the unknown. Originally from Holland, always learning a new language.

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